Daniel Edmondson 

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Painting Class Supply List

1431 Sioux Fort Collins, CO 80526          (970) 308-3221

 Brushes

The student can bring pretty much what they are used to using or utilize what is mentioned below.  I suggest bristle filberts.  Filberts are kind of like using a flat and a round brush all in one.  One will find they can get a lot of use out of them with out buying a whole bunch of brushes.  You can later decide if using a flat or round is more beneficial.  To start I suggest buying numbers 1, 3, 4, 6,  and 10.  If you are on a budget it's good to at least buy 3, 6, 10 or 12. Good brushes are Silver Grand Prix filberts # 1, 3, 6, 8, 12 and Langenickle model 5510 #26 and model 5590 #2, 4, 8, 10, 24, 44 and model #5500 #0 or #1

Remember: your brushes are the connection you have with the canvas, so take care of them and keep them clean...and  when worn down: after a short memorial service throw them away. I have seen too many students working with brushes that look and behave like sticks. Painting is about making sensitive brushstrokes... if you can't do that then your poor brushes may be holding you back.

Paint

The palette of paint I usually use consists of Titanium white (Winsor Newton) and/or cremnitz white (Winsor Newton), cad yellow lemon (Rembrandt), cad yellow deep (Rembrandt), cad red medium (Utrecht), yellow ochre (Rembrandt), Tera Rosa (Winsor Newton), alizarin crimson (Utrecht), Permanent Rose (Winsor Newton),  Transparent Oxide Red (Rembrandt or Utrecht), olive green (Rembrandt), pthalo green or Winsor Green,  ultramarine blue deep (Rembrandt),  Ivory black (Rembrandt), Permanent violet medium (Rembrandt). Other colors I use occasionally: Indian Yellow, Scarlet Red, Dutch Vermillion, Permanent Alizarin, Dioxazine Violet, Venetian Red.

Note: don't run out and spend a fortune on new supplies add a couple here and there until you discover what you like...the magic is in you, not the brushes and paints.

Canvas or painting surface

The student can work on canvas or board.  Cotton duct canvas is less expensive than linen canvas (it is best to coat it with 3 additional coats of gesso then lightly sand when dry to smooth). Another economical (and better) surface you can paint on is hardboard (like Masonite or MDF). If you are planning to make your own it's much like how one would approach painting a wall ...use a soft brush to get a minimum of track marks and groves.  I suggest using an acrylic or traditional gesso. Once you have picked the size of board you are going to cover, apply three even uniform coats.  Allow each coat to dry before moving forward.  It's probably a good idea to several at one setting.  Lastly, lightly sand the surface to a smooth finish then tone using thinned raw umber oil paint and let dry for a couple of days.  For the class I would bring at least 3 or 4 canvases or panels (typical sizes: 12x16, 14"x18" or 16''x 20” so you have the size you want) unless you want to work larger or smaller then bring those sizes. 

Other stuff

Paper towels/Rags, 12x16 paper palette or a 12x16 piece of glass (Preferred), French easel (I have three extras so if you do not own one email me to reserve one of mine), notebook, small hand mirror.  Books/magazines of artists you like, pencil or charcoal, Q-tips, medium, and palette knives. Pizza box or similar for transporting your wet painting.

Turpentine, mineral spirits, Turpenoid or solvents are not needed when painting ...just for clean-up at the end of the day, when you show up for class we will discuss non-hazardous alternatives. If you want to work on a toned canvas, tone it prior to the workshop. Mediums are best if limited to oils such as: walnut oil, linseed oil, poppy seed oil, stand oil etc and Liquin.

970.308.3221  .

Copyright 1995-2008 Daniel Edmondson